One of the things that's very obvious as I chat with Chef Director, Nicholas Balfe, at his restaurant Holm in South Petherton, is how much his face lights up every time we mention food. That's quite a lot, of course!
Whether it's talking about his formative years in the industry (we both discover we have a connection to a particular Harrogate restaurant), or about the whirlwind of starting a pop up in Brixton that actually becomes a mainstay of the food scene, there's a twinkle in Nic's eye - and it brightens the private dining room we've settled in for our conversation.
It's also clear that the journey bringing him to one of Somerset's most beautiful villages, to set up Holm in the building of the old NatWest bank, is one he's put his all in to.
In fact, the stories of local produce, local people (like Kath who brings her allotment produce to be used in the restaurant), the cobb nut tree at the bottom of the garden giving menu inspiration, and stories of bartering sourdough for crab apples, makes me bring Graeme back the following week for lunch...
... and, it's one of the loveliest experiences we've had in a long time.
The skill in the creation of every dish is as obvious as the food is comforting. My beetroot starter is melt in the mouth... delicate, earthy perfection, and let's just say this: the Westcombe cheddar fries are to die for!
So, have a listen to the story of the restaurant, the journey that brought Nic here, and how the community and the land around the village is at the heart of a place that has definitely become home.
This interview was originally aired on BBC Radio Somerset in three parts.
The first two parts aired on October 7th. You can hear the show on BBC Sounds for 14 days (from October 23rd) here. Head 2 hrs, 10mins, 43 secs into the programme. The third part was played out on 14th October. You can hear it for 21 days here, from 1hour 32mins 47 secs!
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